Palm - The Spirit of Sankofa

“Se wo were fi na wosan kofa a yenkyiri.”

“It is not taboo to go back and get what you forgot.”

The proverb from which Sankofa originates rings especially true for Africans in our contemporary world, keeping us ever mindful of ancient traditions passed down by previous generations. Embracing the spirit of Sankofa helps us cherish our ancestry, forge our own path, and build for the future. And when it comes to spirits, there’s a legacy deeply rooted in the soil of the continent - Palm. Enjoyed throughout Africa, it bears innumerable regional names, and its cultivation can be traced back to the 15th century and perhaps even antiquity.

The Wine

Palm wine is made directly from the sap of the palm tree. Tapsters will climb high up the trunk, close to the ‘spathe’ or crown, and carefully make cuts to allow the sap to flow. Palm is notorious for immediately beginning to ferment, and within hours it has reached alcohol levels similar to beer (~4% ABV). Depending on the desired taste, it can be left to ferment until it reaches closer to 15% ABV. Palm wine is ubiquitous in both rural and urban areas, and is enjoyed as a classic serve, with a slightly sweet flavour and rounded mouthfeel.

The Spirit

For producers chasing a stronger bite, the fermented sap can be distilled into a colourless spirit, usually between 40-58% ABV. The art of palm wine distillation has its origins in the indigenous tribes across many regions within West Africa, centuries before European contact. Traditional distillation often took place in clay pots giving a smooth finish. Herbs and roots would then be added according to regional preferences. The result is a potent, aromatic liquid whose flavour possesses a sweet earthiness with grassy notes. 

Palm wine being tapped for local use. Image credit: Alun Williams

The Legacy

Palm flora has been widespread and abundant for over 55 million years, with a resulting impact felt by countless communities of people across continents. In regions such as Nigeria and Sierra Leone, the local drink is commonly referred to as ògógóró and poyo respectively, and has been the drink of choice for many special occasions, from weddings to funerals, bonding communities together. With such an integral role, the association with the divine is almost unsurprising. Whether it’s ancestral libations or a ritual gift to the gods, palm spirit is often placed as the conduit with the spiritual realm, and a symbol of unity. 

A Taste of Heritage

Few words do justice in describing such a unique flavour profile, and with modern producers pioneering a new category in the drinks world, it’s incredible to see their passion to bring us a drink of heritage, and connect us to generations of the past. In Ghana, APHRO offers a pair of signature bottles: The Nubi and The Moor. The Nubi is a warm tropical burst of passionfruit and flamed pineapple, whilst The Moor is brimming with fresh ginger and carefully selected spices, including the indigenous pepper, xylopia aethiopica, for a hearty finish. Out of Nigeria, Pedro’s boasts a 100% organic ògógóró and style their palm as “ours”, with distinctive aromatics and flavours highlighting the terroir of the spirit so closely related to their ancestors. 

Image courtesy of Pedro’s: Instagram

So how do we get you a taste? I’d recommend grabbing any of the above bottles as a gift here, as much for yourself as for another. I found that The Nubi strikes a brilliant balance with drier or bitter lemonades, and Pedro’s marries tremendously with fresh pineapple juice.

And as for cocktails… we’ve been shaking up A LOT of new drinks to share with you, so check out new recipes here, and stay tuned for upcoming events to try them for yourself! Together, we’ll embrace the spirit of Sankofa. Cheers!

• Sources

  https://www.valueafrica.co.uk/blogs/journal/what-are-palm-spirits

  https://academicjournals.org/article/article1380644347_Obahiagbon.pdf

  https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/spirits/nigeria-palm-wine-culture-history/

  https://theluxedigest.com/ogogoro/

  https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/ark-of-taste-slow-food/palm-wine-2/

  https://theculturetrip.com/africa/seychelles/articles/a-brief-history-of-the-seychelles-palm-wine

  https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/palm-wine